Latest Raves from Paul Gregutt

Paul Gregutt recently reviewed our latest wines, including the Love & Squalor 2021 Dry Riesling, Garageland 2023 Pinot Noir, Love & Squalor 2023 Gamay Noir, Love & Squalor 2022 Pinot Noir (not yet released), and Love & Squalor 2021 Reserved Pinot Noir. Read on to hear what he had to say! [tldr: 90+ points across the board!]

Love & Squalor 2021 Dry Riesling

“If you like your Riesling bone dry with the sort of lip-smacking juiciness that is as close to sucking on a lemon as a wine can be, here’s your bottle. And I mean that in a good way. Beyond the lemon you’ll find grapefruit, tangerine, a squeeze of lime… you get the picture. Dry Rieslings can be so dry the fruit feels desiccated; not here. This wine is bursting wide open with fruit, which carries the flavors bright and bold through a lingering finish with a hint of butter.” 110 cases; 11%; $21 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Garageland 2023 Pinot Noir

“The Garageland Pinot is a multi-vineyard blend made, says winemaker Matt Berson, “as an homage to all of the artisans… who toil away behind nondescript roll-up garage doors in warehouse districts across the world”. Bravo. I like the sentiment, and I love the wine. Value Pinot that is made with genuine attention to the qualities that define the grape is a rare thing. You can find plenty of cheap Pinots with unripe fruit, green tannins, added sugar and who knows what else in the mix. But real Pinot, bursting with bright red fruits and supported with punchy acids, Pinot made out of respect for the grape and priced for the hard-working folks who most likely never taste a bottle of wine that costs more than this, deserves applause.” 1031 cases; 13.5%; $22 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Love & Squalor 2023 Gamay Noir

“This is about as pretty a bottle of Oregon Gamay as I’ve ever tasted. There’s an aromatic mix of floral spices that is beguiling, and wraps the crushed raspberry fruit in a sweet sensory wreath. The fruit bulks up in the mid-palate, adding flavors of plum and pie cherry as it sails into the finish. On the second day it turns a little leathery, so drink it now while it’s fresh, spicy, balanced and perfect for immediate enjoyment.” 293 cases; 13%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Love & Squalor 2022 Pinot Noir

“A sexy blend of grapes from eight Willamette Valley vineyards, including four in different sub-AVAs, this benefits from what is one of the finest vintages in several years. Bright red fruits, sassy acids, a touch of chocolate and punchy alcohol all combine to make this a fresh, penetrating young wine with mid-level aging potential. It’s no mean feat to pull together so many disparate sources and craft a complete, full-bodied and flat out delicious wine. Done here, and done well.” 1400 cases; 14%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Love & Squalor 2021 Reserved Pinot Noir

“Held back prior to release, this is the newest and latest Reserved from L&S. Four barrels are selected for the blend, yielding a wine with a darker profile of black fruits touched with highlights of charred wood. At the core is a generous serving of black cherry fruit, balanced against proportionate acids and ripe tannins. Tasted with the winery’s regular Pinot (from 2022), this is the bigger and darker wine, a wine I’d drink over the next half decade. I look forward to the 2022 Reserved.” 100 cases; 14%; $48 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Wine Enthusiast Raves

Wine Enthusiast recently threw on their party hats and gave our wines a serious fist bump in their upcoming April issue (on sale March 26, 2024). Check out these rocking scores:

92 points Pet Matt 2022 Sunnyside Vineyard Riesling (Willamette Valley).

Matt Berson of Love & Squalor is a skilled Riesling practitioner, so I was excited to try his pétillant-naturel-style sekt. It did not disappoint. Green papaya, peach fuzz, hazelnuts and yeasty brioche aromas segue into flavors of a mineral-laden tonic water garnished with lemon. This wine is bone-dry and ready to dance. Editors’Choice. —M.A. buy here

91 points Pet Matt 2022 Sams Vineyard Sparkling Rosé of Cabernet Franc (Southern Oregon).

This pinkhued pétillant-naturel wine with brash acidity is more fun than we deserve. Crushed strawberries and sunflowers paint an aromatic picture made even more irresistible by notes of thyme and rose petals. Flavors of candied nectarines, saline and juniper berries rub up against a chalky texture. Hidden Gem. —M.A. buy here

94 points Love & Squalor 2019 Reserved Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

It’s always the quiet ones. The winemaker named this wine “Reserved” because he thinks it only hints at its potential. Trust me, it is already excellent. Dark raspberry, orange peel, basil and clove aromas lead to flavors of white tea and red cherries. Lemony acidity matches with brawny tannins. Drink now–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.A. buy here

91 points Garageland 2022 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

In Garageland, the wine is always a great value, and The Clash is always playing. The latest Garageland Pinot Noir offers dark raspberry and pine needle aromas accompanied by a trace of cranberry. Boisterous acidity backs flavors like cherry, dark chocolate, cedar and coriander. Best Buy. —M.A. buy here

95 points Love & Squalor 2022 Gamay Noir (Willamette Valley).

This is one of the best reds I tasted in 2023. It is a 100% whole cluster, partialcarbonic maceration wine that aged in neutral oak for 11 months. It’s Tootsie Roll and bergamot aromas remind me of the Terry’s Chocolate Orange I’d get in my stocking as a kid. Cranberry-orange and raspberry pastille flavors meld with green tea and thyme notes. Editors’ Choice. —M.A. buy here

91 points Love & Squalor 2021 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

While the wine’s aromas of ripe blackberries and freshly cut grass are nice, the show really begins with the first sip. Rich boysenberry sorbet and dark chocolate flavors glide on a palate as smooth as silk and the Fine Young Cannibals. This is a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir with gentle acidity and plush tannins. —M.A. buy here

Paul Greguett's Summer Wine Picks

We love a shout out! Paul Gregutt's Northwest Wine Guide about his summer wine picks has some great scores for Love & Squalor. Here’s what he has to say…

High Value, High Flavor Summer Wines

Retailers are overrun with cheap wines. Value wines that are inexpensive are much harder to find.
PAUL GREGUTT JUN 30, 2023

Love & Squalor/Garageland

Garageland 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir – Big flavors of cherry candy, wet stone and a super fresh mouthfeel make this a summer slam dunk for sipping on your porch. The wine does indeed, as winemaker Matt Berson writes, "dance on the palate". Good texture and impressive length, along with that crisply elegant mouthfeel, make this one of the summer's best. 300 cases; 13.5%; $16 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Garageland 2021 Pinot Noir – Almost two thirds of this was sourced from Ribbon Ridge vineyards, another 20% from the nearby Laurelwood AVA. That's a high standard for such an inexpensive wine. It's a bit stiff and earthy when first opened, so give it some breathing time. The aromatics are spot on, the flavors a mix of brambly berries and savory side notes. This is a wine that will deliver a lot of depth and complexity if given the chance. 500 cases; 13.8%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Love & Squalor 2022 'A Frayed Knot' Skin Contact Gewürztraminer – Ripe Gewürztraminer grapes turn a pretty blush color, and when given skin contact prior to pressing some of that comes through. Here it's a light apricot hue, wonderfully aromatic with the powdery floral scents for which the grape is known. Fermenting in neutral barrels has broadened the flavors, added depth and texture, and along the way inspired the wine to continue through a spontaneous secondary (malolactic) ferment. This is inspired, delicious, and unique. 100 cases; 12.5%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Love & Squalor 2022 'Walks on Gilded Splinters' Skin Contact Pinot Gris – Grapes from Dion Vineyard are on display here in a rosé style wine with a deep sunset hue. Dr. John aficionados will recognize the reference to the classic New Orleans swamp rock. Lovely texture and mouthfeel, with plenty of crisp apple and citrus fruit at the core. 100 cases; 13%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Love & Squalor 2022 Pinot Gris – The winery has had the good fortune in 2022 to contract Dion vineyard grapes for both of its Pinot Gris. This is excellent fruit – ripe, fresh, crisp, minerally and loaded with citrus and stone flesh and skin flavors. The flavors dive down and down through the palate, clean and pure, seeming to gather focus and intensity as the wine gracefully resolves. 250 cases; 12.5%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 93/200

Love & Squalor 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – Winemaker Matt Berson credits "the Sauvignon Blanc cartel – Patty Green, Jay Somers and Andrew Rich – for helping to define this variety in Oregon (I concur) and inspiring him to continue on with it. I've long believed that this should be right up there with Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling as front and center white wine grapes in the Willamette Valley. This is strikingly pure, fresh and varietal, with a hint of grassiness but none of the more extreme flavors that can turn people away. Lime, pineapple, grapefruit and lemon are all in a tangle, with defining acids all the way through the finish.185 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/200

The Review on Paul Gregutt's Northwest Wine Guide

Wine Enthusiastic for LOVE & SQUALOR!

Our latest reviews in Wine Enthusiastic have been stellar! Check it out:

Love & Squalor 2018 Dry Riesling (Willamette Valley)

As dry and crisp as fall leaves crunching underfoot, this brilliant Riesling displays aromas and flavors of Granny Smith apples, Anjou pears and a not-quite-ripe honeydew melon. A plethora of herbs, from chamomile to lemon basil, make appearances. The acidity is brisk and so is the wine's texture. MICHAEL ALBERTY

RATING 92
DESIGNATION Dry
VARIETY Riesling
APPELLATION Willamette Valley, Oregon, US
WINERY Love & Squalor
ALCOHOL 12%
CATEGORY White
DATE PUBLISHED 4/1/2023

BUY HERE

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Love & Squalor 2021 Gamay Noir (Willamette Valley)

This partial carbonic maceration Gamay Noir is a “must try.” It is fresh and vibrant, with enough acidity to light a small village. Aromas of black cherries and Emmental cheese are joined by a lively cucumber note. Strawberry and raspberry flavors are flanked by basil and apple pectin. MICHAEL ALBERTY
RATING 92
VARIETY Gamay Noir
APPELLATION Willamette Valley, Oregon, US
WINERY Love & Squalor
ALCOHOL13%
CATEGORY Red
DATE PUBLISHED 4/1/2023

BUY HERE

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Love & Squalor 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

What an amazingly floral nose. Aromas of blackberries, seagrass, jasmine, hibiscus and orchids—it's like tasting wine with a Hawaiian lei around your neck. Dark-cherry and chocolate flavors and a touch of toasted coconut dominate the palate. Decant, as the tannins are still grippy. MICHAEL ALBERTY

RATING 91
DESIGNATION Reserve
VARIETY Pinot Noir
APPELLATION Willamette Valley, Oregon, US
WINERY Love & Squalor
ALCOHOL13%
CATEGORY Red
DATE PUBLISHED 4/1/2023

BUY HERE

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Love & Squalor 2019 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

A really classic Willamette Valley Pinot nose, with lots of red cherries, black tea, orange zest and a streak of Thai basil. Nice, bright acidity steals the show from soft tannins with a subtle grip. The wine tastes like a soda fountain cherry phosphate mixed with blackberry, straw and lemon verbena flavors. No squalor here, just a whole lot of love. MICHAEL ALBERTY

RATING 92
VARIETY Pinot Noir
APPELLATION Willamette Valley, Oregon, US
WINERY Love & Squalor
ALCOHOL 13%
CATEGORY Red
DATE PUBLISHED 4/1/2023

BUY HERE

#19 in Seattle Times Review

The 20 best Northwest wines of 2022

Nov. 4, 2022 by Eric Degerman

19. Portland Wine Co. 2021 Love & Squalor Gamay noir, Willamette Valley, $32: Matt Berson is nearly a decade into his pursuit of this fun red from Burgundy, and vines in the Eola-Amity Hills provide plenty of pop within this offering of pomegranate, marionberry and strawberry SweeTARTS candy.

link to article

THE OREGONIAN - PINOT NOIR PARTY RECOMMENDATIONS

6 Willamette Valley pinot noir party recommendations

by Michael Alberty | For The Oregonian/OregonLive

A Willamette Valley pinot noir is always a welcome guest at any backyard party or front porch social. With that in mind, I’ve been tracking down pinots that over-deliver on quality while not giving wine budgets a case of the summertime blues. I’ve listed where I purchased these wines and the price I paid for them. Prices may vary in other locations. The still wines are all 13.5% alcohol by volume, while the “Pinot Pop” is 11%.

2021 Garageland Willamette Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir

Meet the only rosé in the world named after a Clash song. Garageland is made by the highly talented Matt Berson, who joins his wife Angela Reat as the co-owners of Love & Squalor Wine in Southeast Portland. The Garageland is the color of a pink rose that’s been crushed by a pair of Doc Martens combat boots. Aromas of peach and mint slam up against a mineral quality best described as a concrete sidewalk after a drought-breaking rain. It has a crisp mouthfeel with enough acidity to rock the casaba melon and orange citrus flavors.

”You can buy” …at Market of Choice-Cedar Mill, 250 N.W. Lost Springs Terrace, 503-596-3592.

link to article

OREGONIAN INTERVIEW WITH MATT ABOUT LOVE AND SQUALOR

Love & Squalor makes serious wines with a humorous touch

Updated: Jul. 13, 2022, 10:01 a.m. | Published: Jul. 13, 2022

Winery spotlight: Love & Squalor

By Michael Alberty | For The Oregonian/OregonLIve

My dad once asked me to track down a wine called Lust & Poverty, and it took me a few days to figure out he was talking about a new winery named Love & Squalor. That was almost 14 years ago, and I’ve been happily drinking Matt Berson’s wines ever since.

Love & Squalor is best known for: dry wit and dry riesling.

“Must try” current release: 2017 Love & Squalor Willamette Valley Dry Riesling ($20). A delightfully crisp wine filled to the brim with aromas and flavors of citrus, chamomile tea, and Granny Smith apples.

Innovation: In 2012, a half-ton of gewürztraminer arrived unexpectedly during harvest chaos. Berson kept the fruit, but he couldn’t process it right away. After 10 days spent soaking in a cooler, the grapes were pressed, and the traditionally white gewürztraminer was now an orange-colored wine with some tannic structure.

Berson named the wine “A Frayed Knot.” It was one of the Willamette Valley’s first extended skin-contact “orange wines.” While Berson thought it might be a “one-off” if nobody liked it, he’s been making the wine ever since.

The most recent experiment is a 250 ml. can of sparkling sauvignon blanc infused with fresh Mosaic hops. The Portland Wine Company “Rumble Can” sells for $7 and is an exotic pick-me-up on a warm summer evening.

Favorite Oregon “get away” spot: The Chicken House in Gearhart. “It’s a nice place on the coast to relax,” Berson said.

History: Twenty years ago, Matt Berson put San Francisco in his rearview mirror to take a job managing the now-defunct Oritalia restaurant at The Westin Portland hotel.

Working at various restaurants in the Bay Area, Berson was well-versed in wines from California, Italy and France. His familiarity with Oregon wines, however, was limited. That changed quickly. “I started tasting Willamette Valley rieslings made by Jimi Brooks, Jay Somers and Tad Seestedt. They were so lively and dynamic that my mind was blown,” Berson said.

Berson’s journey to winemaking began with an invitation to pour wines one weekend at a Patricia Green Cellars open house.

Winemaker Patty Green and Berson hit it off, so he returned to work harvest for her in 2003. The restaurant career was over as Berson worked various jobs with Green, Somers, Brooks and anyone who needed help at the Carlton Winemakers Studio. Stints in New Zealand, Argentina, German and the Napa Valley rounded out his winemaking chops.

Berson made his first wines while working for Seestedt at Ransom Wines in 2006. The only problem was Berson didn’t have a name for his winery. “I was carrying around a notebook to jot down ideas, but nothing was clicking,” Berson said.

Then Berson picked up a copy of J.D. Salinger short stories at a Goodwill store. “For Esme — With Love and Squalor” resonated with him. “I thought to myself, ‘love and squalor, that’s it, that’s winemaking,’” Berson said.

The laundry-filled clothesline on Love & Squalor labels also reinforces winemaking’s sometimes precarious nature. The clothesline artwork was created by artist Clare Carver of Big Table Farm winery fame. Angela Reat, Love & Squalor’s general manager and Berson’s partner and wife, has created the winery’s labels and graphics since then.

Love & Squalor’s winery and tasting room is located inside the Portland Wine Company building at 3201 S.E. 50th Ave.

What we don’t know: Berson co-wrote a restaurant gossip column in San Francisco in the late 1990s. The “Side Dish” appeared in SF Weekly under the nom de plume of Harry Coverte.

Biggest inspiration: In terms of wine, Berson names two friends and mentors who are no longer with us: Jimi Brooks and Patty Green. “I’m always thinking about how they would do something in the cellar or what music Jimi would be playing. Their presence motivates me to do better,” Berson said.

Berson also names his parents, Tom and Dorothy Berson, who he said “found their own way in life, with thoughtfulness and on their own terms.”

Key insight: Berson would like to reassure everybody that while he has fun with his labels and life, he takes winemaking seriously. “We fret, worry and split hairs over every grape we pick and every single wine we make. Maybe think of me as a comedic actor that’s also pretty good at taking dramatic turns,” Berson said.

Where to buy: Love & Squalor wines are easy to find in the Portland area at Division Wines and various New Seasons Market, Market of Choice and Zupan’s Markets locations.

In Portland, Gado Gado, Noble Rot and Bullard Tavern are the places to be if you would like to experience Love & Squalor wines with food. In San Francisco and Seattle, Berson’s wines are served at Waterbar and Rock Creek Seafood, respectively.

portlandwinecompany.com or info@loveandsqualorwine.com.

-- Michael Alberty writes about wine for The Oregonian/OregonLive. He can be reached at malberty0@gmail.com. To read more of his coverage, go to oregonlive.com/wine.

link to original article

PRINCE OF PINOT latest reviews

The Prince of Pinot’s latest reviews

reviews 2/20/2022

2016 Love & Squalor Sunny Mountain Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 25 cases, $54. Released fall 2021. 100% whole cluster. Clones are an interesting co-fermented mix of Pommard, faux 828, and 23 (Mariafeld). · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The aromas arrive over time in the glass and include barrel cave, deep red cranberry, spice and roasted nuts. Pleasurable flavors of red berry and cherry with a whisper of oak that tail off at the finish. Fine-grain tannins and a refined mouthfeel make for easy drinking. Score: 92

2016 Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 50 cases, $54. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Fragrant aromas of cherry, bramble, rose and oak spice. Plush on the palate, with resonant dark cherry and raspberry fruit flavors infused with racy energy and backed by tame tannins. Excellent harmony with a lengthy finish. Atypical for this vineyard in that the fruits trend more to redder types, there is less underlying earthiness and the overall impression is finesse rather than power. Score: 92

2017 Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 50 cases, $54. Released fall 2021. Clones are 113, 114, 667 and Pommard. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Sensational nose that elevates over time in the glass to offer soaring aromas of dark cherry, potpourri, tilled earth and spice. Light to mid-weight in style and rather elegant in character, with a delicious array of dark red and purple fruits infused with bright acidity and framed by delicate tannins. The finish is long like a three hour movie you don’t want to end.. This is an unusual interpretation of this vineyard that known is more for its rich, dark fruit, intense color and bold tannins. Score: 94

2016 Love & Squalor Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 75 cases, $48. Released fall 2021. A selection of the winemaker’s three favorite barrels in the cellar. A blend of grapes from Vista Hills Vineyard in the Dundee Hills and Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills (50% each). · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The nose is dominated by oak-driven aromas of mocha java and root beer shadowing red cherry scent. Light to mid-weight in concentration displaying juicy red cherry fruit with a gentle cloak of oak. Soft tannins, a silken texture and a modest finish. Score: 90

2017 Love & Squalor Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 50 cases, $48. Release spring 2022. A selection of the winemaker’s four favorite barrels in the cellar. Sourced from Vista Hills Vineyard (667 and 777), Temperance Hill Vineyard (667, 113, 114 and Pommard) and Sunnyside Vineyard (Gamay and Wädenswil). · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of Bing cherry, cola and mocha. A harmonious wine with a good acid underbelly and modest tannins. The mid-weight, brambly dark red cherry and black raspberry fruits are satisfying. Score: 92

OUR NEWEST RELEASE IN WINE ENTHUSIAST

Love & Squalor Dry Riesling Scores in Wine Enthusiast

This new vintage drops the alcohol more than a full point from the previous year, but it remains a dry, steely wine whose electric tension punches up ripe citrus fruit, notably grapefruit, and tart, racy acids. For that style of bone-dry Riesling this is ground zero, with a lipsmacking finish. PAUL GREGUTT

• RATING 91

• ALCOHOL 11.5%

• DATE PUBLISHED 8/1/2020
  

Buy the newest Love & Squalor Dry Riesling Willamette Valley 2017 here<

The Love & Squalor Sunnyside Vineyard Riesling SCORES!

The Sunnyside Vineyard was established near the Salem I-5 corridor in 1971. The site was settled and has been farmed by Tom Owen and Luci Wisniewski since 1980. The block is planted to the Geisenheim Riesling clone 90. It is farmed by hand with multiple passes of leaf thinning and green harvest. The fruiting canes are trained with so-called Pendelbogen arches, and the canopy is permitted to drape down over the clusters, particularly is hot years such as this. The vineyard additionally raises Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Dolcetto and a few other surprises. It is a lovely place.

Riesling is THE varietal that rocked my boat in 2001 when I first tasted its expression from the Oregon soils. I find that white wines, and Riesling in particular, are beautifully transparent in their reflection of the site and the winemaker, in a way that reds can never be - cloaked warmly as they are in their skin contact and their barrel aging. Everything has its place and time. Now is the time for vineyard-specific Oregon Riesling...and here it is!

You can buy it here —>

WINE & Spririts

published August 2021 issue

92 pts. Love & Squalor

2016 Willamette Valley Sunnyside Vineyard Riesling: From a parcel planted in 1971, this wine's scents of lees and lime fruit feel slow to rouse. The wines' texture has an old-vine feel, dry but unctuous, like lime oil, with sneaky acids and a wheat savor to the finish. - P.J.C. (25 cases)

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VINOUS

published sept 2020

91 pts. Love & Squalor 2016 Riesling Sunnyside Vineyard
Willamette Valley, Oregon
White wine from United States
Drinking window: 2020 - 2025

Brilliant straw. Bright and piercing on the nose, displaying an array of fresh citrus fruit and floral scents and a strong mineral topnote. Racy and precise on the palate, offering nervy lemon zest, green apple and bitter quince flavors that very slowly unfurl on the back half. Shows firm cut and mineral lift on a long, penetrating finish that leaves a suave honeysuckle note behind.

Josh Raynolds. Tasting date: March 2020

A Mention in a Delectable Article

Old World vs. New World Pinot

by Ellen Clifford April 2020 (abridged version)

Pinot Noir .
Oh yes.
The esteemed.
The renowned.
The f*cking DRC. I had it once.
Also the grape that got a major glow up from Sideways and unwittingly bullied California Merlot into obscurity sure as Macavity clawed Grizabella into the gutter.
Oh wait Cats metaphors—too soon or too real? Also I loved Cats. Stage and movie versions. Also real life cats. My lord I need a kitty.
Wait. Wine. Pinot Noir. Meow.
If you are quarantining, I suggest stocking up and playing along as this article is gonna be a two-parter.
This article comes with the disclaimer that for every country and region, heck, for individual vineyards of Pinot I could write a whole tome and not be done. Pinot is ever so nuanced. It’s also worth mentioning that in addition to terroir, the clone of Pinot can make quite a difference. That could be another friggin’ book—did you realize that Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc are just clones of Pinot Noir? But let’s get the basics covered before we worry about dirt and clones. And drones. They also worry me but not today, Satan.
Pinot Noir’s origins remain mysterious, as Jancis Robinson’s “Wine Grapes” points to many “dubious” origin stories. So we won’t dwell on that. Just know that “Pinot” is considered one of the three main grapes from whence came pretty much everything we drink now. The other two “founder” grapes are savagnin (also called traminer) and gouais blanc. The reason you mostly find Pinot Noir grown in cooler climates is that it ripens early, so it needs cool air to prolong the ripening process long enough for the grape to develop some complexity.
Pinot Noir’s biggest tasting note to me—beyond gentler tannins—is cherries. Of all types. Red, black, bing, and so on, Pinot Noir almost always has something cherry about it. It partners well with oak, so you often will find telltale vanilla and baking spice. All of this adds up to it sometimes tasting like one of humanities biggest gifts to our taste buds: Cherry-Vanilla Coke. But give it some time and Pinot Noir gets enchanting herbs and—oooh baby! Earth. Truffles! But also dried flowers and suddenly (in your mind) you are dancing naked and barefoot on a dewy lawn drinking boozy Cherry-Vanilla Coke.
Don’t wine-kink shame me. We all have our thing.
I love this grape, fickle as it can be. In every region I tasted there were bland lightweights and/or cooked fake jammy examples. Pinot is at every level enjoyable, but unlike fries, which excel in the cheap versions, Pinot does not necessarily. That being said, I tried in these columns to find at least a couple more budget friendly ones.
Here’s one more thing. Goodness, Pinot Noir needs a lot of disclaimers it seems. I felt it sacrilege to even try to give Burgundy a run for its money.
Burgundy is one of the most beautiful things on earth. And don’t you ever forget it. So this week, off to the New World. Then we will explore Burgundy. Not only am I beginning with the New World but I’m starting in the southern hemisphere. Keeping it fresh in #quarantine2020.

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OREGON

Ah, Oregon, the Pinot Noir that can confound the blind taster for its tendency toward being Old World-ly. I had the good fortune to attend a dinner in honor of the (now canceled because Corona) Willamette Valley Wine Pinot Noir Auction. But don’t you babies worry, I tasted wines I selected of my own accord too, to curate my recommendations. Even just within the Willamette Valley there is a range of subregions with varied soils making a range of Pinot expressions. When I can travel again, it is at the top of my wine travel wishlist. I have to give honorable mentions here too, to Gothic and Eyrie —love them. Always will, but I wanted to give some new-to-me guys some love.

2017 Portland Wine Company “Love and Squalor” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
How I do love this! Not just for its mischievous drying laundry label, but…well the first time I tried it was when my boyfriend blinded me on it. By which I mean he poured it, and I tried to deduce what it was. I have a lot of kinks but losing my vision isn’t one of them. I found it indelibly Pinot Noir but was it Old World? New? I was confounded. Either which way it is damned delightful and a comparative bargain. Rich red fruits and pencil box. No, not pencil lead and cigar box but pencil box—that medley of pencils, crayons, erasers and cedar AND maybe a rebel student has a cigarette hidden in there. Would that be me? Not until 8th grade whoops. It is an excellent Pinot.

READ the whole article here —>

2020 TEXSOM International Wine Awards!

This year in February, TEXSOM awarded 2 of our wines medals in their competition.

We got a Silver Medal for the ‘Antsy Pants’ Reserve Dry Riesling, 2013 (Willamette Valley) and a Bronze Metal for the Love & Squalor Pinot Noir 2017 (Willamette Valley)

TEXSOM is a wine competition with 61 judges, 69 Sommelier Retreat members, 80+ team members, and 2,875 total entries. Unique amongst all other wine competitions, the TEXSOM International Wine Awards holds a Sommelier Retreat behind the scenes. This year a total of 69 participants were in attendance; 45 sommeliers from 16 states and two countries and 24 mentors (Master Sommeliers, Masters of Wine and Editors). While the judges and volunteers were hard at work facilitating the judging of over 2,800 wines, the panel of sommeliers tasted select medal-winning wines, received tutelage in writing about these wines from the esteemed editors also in attendance, practiced blind tasting techniques with Master Sommeliers and worked with the Wine Awards production team to understand the competition’s high standards and rigorous processes.

You can learn more about TEXSOM here —>

Making Wine During a Pandemic

Oregon’s wine industry chases safety and sales in the coronavirus era

By Michael Alberty | For The Oregonian/OregonLive
APRIL 01,2020

Selling wine in the best of times is hard work. In a global pandemic it means closing your doors to the public and grinding it out with curbside pickups and home deliveries.

This is a single snapshot of Oregon’s wine stores and wineries as they struggle to balance public safety with economic survival.

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THE WINERIES

Matt Berson of Love & Squalor Wine reports wine sales plummeted 70-75% after closing the doors of his urban winery. Now he offers curbside pickup service at his Portland Wine Co. building. Berson also started making free home deliveries within a 20-mile radius of his winery for a six-bottle minimum purchase.

Berson also extends a 20% discount to all food service workers. “Small, family-run restaurants are a key part of our wine ecosystem and I want to be supportive,” Berson says. According to Berson, home deliveries are starting to pick up. “People are not only getting thirsty again, Portlanders like to support local producers,” Berson says.Berson is confident his winery will survive COVID-19. “There will be belt tightening, but we love what we do and we will push through. Besides, people drink wine in times of both great joy and misery.”

THE WHOLE ARTICLE can be read here —->

Another Reason to Love Oregon Wine Press...

November 1, 2019

Going Urban

Love & Squalor celebrates new Rose City space

By Mark Stock

Just in time for this year’s harvest, Portland Wine Co. has settled into their new world headquarters in the southeast part of the city. The space, a 5,000-square-foot former showroom and warehouse, now houses the winemaking and tasting room for Love & Squalor Wines. It officially opened to the public on Oct. 24, amid fermenting fruit and another fantastic Oregon vintage. 

Couple Matt Berson and Angie Reat bought the place after several years of sniffing around their hometown of Portland; Berson previously made their wine at Goodfellow Family Cellars in McMinnville’s Granary District. Before launching their label in 2006, Berson worked crush pads all over the planet, from Germany to New Zealand to Argentina. He considers late greats Patricia Green and Jimi Brooks to be his first major mentors.

Portland Wine Company owners Angela Reat and Matt Berson.Photo provided

Prior to Love & Squalor, the tasting room and barrel cellar areas of the newly renovated structure served as a local grocer dating to the 1920s. The adjoining production space was built a few decades later, most recently in operation as a fire extinguisher service company. As Portland Wine Co., it will serve as a gathering place for folks in the surrounding, bustling neighborhoods like South Tabor, Foster-Powell and Richmond. Plus, it’s only a short drive the airport and downtown, making it an easy stop for Oregon’s growing tourist traffic.

For Berson and Reat, the move made sense on a lot of levels, including being able to show the inner workings of their craft to an eager Portland audience. As the city’s dynamic wine scene has demonstrated, urbanites — not always up for the hour’s drive to the belly of wine country — enjoy being able to witness winemaking in action.

But, most importantly, he’s much closer to those he cares about most.

“I really wanted to bring my girls out of the office and into the cellar, to mix it up a bit,” Berson says. “Now, with all the winery operations and tasting room under one roof, there is plenty to keep the whole family busy and still have dinner together at our kitchen table.

“Also, we are only a few blocks from our daughter’s school, so I hope to be able to train her after class lets out to take over the winemaking someday,” he says with a wink. Roxy, just 9 years old, represents the second generation of the family business — of course, time will tell what their daughter will choose.

Love & Squalor is perhaps best known for its stunning family of Rieslings. It’s also responsible for varietals such as Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Gamay Noir, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. The label pulls from storied vineyards throughout the Valley and beyond, some of which are well-established sites first planted in the 1970s. The name is a nod to iconic author J.D. Salinger, while partner, Reat, a graphic designer by trade, is responsible for all of the branding, including labels.

The new space also provides a place for experimentation and side wine projects, like Marty, Berson’s red blend of Southern Oregon fruit, and Mothershucker, a Willamette Valley white table delight. In addition, the winery hosts two outside brands: Jackalope Cellars and Landmass Wines.

In some ways, the Portland winemaking community is like that of wine country back in the early years. There are relatively few players and, come crush, a tangible sense of camaraderie. “We love our community in the city,” Berson adds. “Just a great ragtag bunch of wine pirates. The urban wineries kind of have to make do and help each other along this far away from the vineyards and supply stores. We are joining up to fly the flag of local wine and bring it to the thirsty.”

The 750-square-foot tasting room features an enticing mix of lounge-friendly furnishings and a living-room sort of feel. Presently, there are 15 glass pour options available, ranging from sparkling Chenin Blanc to Pinot to Gamay Noir. There are simple and satisfying food options, too, such as tinned fish, popcorn and stuffed vegetables. A modest corkage fee of $10 is tied to any sub-$50 bottle purchase. The wines sport added appeal in that, for the most part, they represent great bargains.

Aesthetically, the space is easy on the eyes, a mix of soothing blues and browns. Wood-framed windows welcome in plenty of natural light from their street-corner location, and barrel stacks throughout remind guests that winemaking is an essential part of the venue.

As for their first harvest in the new spot, Berson suggests it’s going swimmingly. Space is a little tighter and awareness of nearby city neighbors can be a challenge, but, by and large, crush remains much the same. If anything, the biggest change of pace is being handed to them by the nature of the vintage itself: Berson says an intense stretch of heat, trailed by significant precipitation, rendered the fruit a bit more on the delicate side.

“That said, my vine-tenders pulled some really nice fruit off their plants,” he adds. “We sorted thoroughly, and the ferments are happy and smell delicious.” Berson thinks the 2019s will offer a reset of sorts from the vintages of recent history. “But the wines will achieve classic status, I believe,” he says.

Portland Wine Company will offer celebratory case discounts for its first six operating months. The family-friendly operation is open Thursday–Monday.

The space promises to be a boon for Love & Squalor’s growing wine club, “Friends with Benefits,” and the city’s growing wine scene, which now boasts Love & Squalor’s tremendous catalogue of Rieslings and another dedicated family business.

 Read from their site here —>

IT's official if you are in WINE BUSINESS...

Thanks #winebusiness for the shout out! It feels official, now.

Portland, Ore.—On Thursday, October 24th Matt Berson and Angela Reat, the husband and wife team behind Love & Squalor wine, will open Portland Wine Company, their brand new winery and tasting room. The urban winery will be home to their Love & Squalor wine label which they started in 2006, as well as other projects from the team. Open daily, Thursday through Monday from 4-7pm, and Saturdays and Sundays from 1-5pm, the family-friendly Portland Wine Company will offer a menu of light snacks and sharable plates. Flights, glasses and bottles will be available to enjoy at the in the comfortable tasting room. It will be a destination for wine shopping, featuring their complete portfolio of wines from the Portland Wine Company, including their labels, Love & Squalor, Garageland, Mothershucker and the ‘Antsy Pants’ Reserve label, plus other wine projects not available anywhere else. The 5,000 square foot space, is additionally home to tenant winemakers Jackalope Wine Cellars, and Landmass Wines. To celebrate their opening, Portland Wine Company will offer case discounts for the first 6 months.

more to read is here —>